Having Ultimaker Feeder Issues – Try this design! | 3DPrinterOS.Feeder problem - Ultimaker 3D printers - Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

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Ultimaker 3E feeder problem - Ultimaker 3D printers - Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

  Pardon my english but I'll try to explain myself. I had the exact same problem with Ultimaker 2. After looking hours and hours at the feeder, I discovered problem was coming from the other side of the transparent tube hanging on your pic. This tube wasn't pushed enough toward the nozzle before securing it with the little plastic thing. Apr 10,  · Ultimaker S5 and Ultimaker S3: On the Ultimaker S5 and Ultimaker S3 this is less likely to happen, since the flow sensor will prevent further grinding of material in the feeder. When there is still an issue with the filament, this is easy to fix. Release the feeder tension by lifting the lever at the side of the feeder. For instance the Ultimaker 2 is an awesome 3D Printer but the feeder motor can sometimes be a bit tricky to deal with especially if you are switching between mm and 3mm filament. We printed out and tested this alternate feeder motor design found on Youmagine designer IRobertI. So far the results have been incredible.  

UM3 Problem with the feeder - Ultimaker 3D printers - Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts - Create an account or sign in to comment

  Printer Two is even worse. Feeding filament into extruder two is nearly impossible. Filament doesn't smoothly pass through. It takes a few. The feeder is working when I load filament. I am not sure about the middle fan. Is that the fan on the printcore door? Since I can load filament. Also the wrong cura settings can easily cause underextrusion. You could try posting all of those - the key ones are: layer height, print speed .    

 

Ultimaker 3 feeder problem free.

   

Hey, I guess you were right. The video is awesome, I already disassembled it with this guideline, which is also nice:. That menu does not control the front fan. That menu controls the side fans. The front fan is controlled by the firmware and will automatically run when the nozzle is at 50 C. Interesting, then I'll put it back in it's fairly clean by now and heat up the print core to see what happens.

Thanks for the tip! It's printing again. I owe the two of you big time! You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Already have an account? By Jls , November 1, in Ultimaker 3D printers. My printer is not printing at all. All of a sudden today the filament stopped coming out. I am able to load filament properly in either printcore 1 or 2, but nothing comes out during printing. Any ideas? From your description I would say it is the fan. Check the middle fan, it is the one in the door which start automatically when the print core is heating up and hotter than 40C or 50C.

Maybe it is blocked by some filament strings or so. I found that the wires going to the sensor for active leveling were broken. I resoldered them. Then I still had a problem with active leveling until I uncompressed all three springs on the build plate. After that, I did a manual leveling. Then I was able to do active leveling.

Now printing seems to work again. The bed springs should be not too soft and not too hard. If I remember correctly the distance between the two aluminum plates should be 14mm, not exact, round about There is definately a problem with the middle fan.

Automatic leveling works when I unplug the fan. I have not observed any slickness when I brushed it off by hand. On your advice, I will find something with stiff bristles and give it a good once over.

The filament leavings you describe in 3 may be a chief cause of the filament stuck in the Bowden tube described near the end of my diatribe informative and succinct post. On your recommendation in 4 , I will try plunging it. I hope my rifle cleaning kit is a thin enough bore. Bristle it good. A bit of clean filament and tissue is sufficient. You would be surprised how tiny that hole through the tube really is.

When you load the filament, make sure it is not too far into the tube when it starts to feed. What will happen is that if it is too far into the tube, it will continue to slam that filament into the hot end faster than it can melt the plastic and create a small grinding.

THEN it will just cascade into grinding hell. This will happen on ALL filament. Take it from da clumsy noob It takes time since I have a busy schedule, but I finally got around to doing the suggestions kmanstudios. I have pictures and I will address the attempts. First, cleaning the Bowden tube was a difficult endeavor. That thing was tight. The print attempt afterwards had no changes. I then made an upgrade. The swap was easy, and took no time. You can check out the tube I chose on Amazon at this link.

The PTFE does seem to be much nicer to use. Filament glides through this tube like a hot knife through butter. The PFA tube had seen some stress from use, and the filament actually got stuck, without being damaged. This still did not fix my problems, but it does seem to be a worthwhile upgrade. Second, cleaning the knurled wheel had no effect. I cleaned with a brass bristle brush.

It did not produce much plastic when I cleaned it. Like I said, the only difference between those two photos is the application of air duster. If there was plastic on the knurled wheel, we would see the red on the after picture. So now we are back to where we started. I'm still having problems. I thought the problem was fixed after the PTFE upgrade, because I got something to print with 0 issues. The settings on the printer were 0. So, I got ambitious and attempted a larger print.

This time with 0. But, it was an interesting failure. The multicolored filament is all Colorfabb filament which has been welded together. As you can see, the first few layers are perfect. But, suddenly one layer in the gray section fails. It appears to drop a daub of PLA, then skip for a moment, and drop another daub. It does this with a regular pattern. As the print progressed before I noticed and aborted it , the plastic deposits with the same periodicity.

While this looks really neato and makes a fun spongy print, it is not a good thing. The filament is clearly feeding, as it goes through the color sections eventually, but it is doing so incorrectly.

I recently bought a Filastruder, so at least I can begin recouping some of the cost of failed filament. I have about 5 gallons of scrap ready to recycle from this blasted problem and all my other personal failures. My notes say you can do that at C but no way at C. So you need to either:. You don't have to do all 3! Just one of those. Or you can do a 4th thing - use a 0. Regarding retractions - that's nothing. You should see the amount of retractions when printing the eiffel tower or a voronai vase.

I agree with gr5 on this one. If you want to print at that sort of volume per second with PLA and a. As a result, overhangs won't look as good probably because of the cooling. It takes you from 3 cubic mm to However, you can only successfully get it printing at the upper levels if you're printing at C, which is what we built into the gcode for that test. You have 2 AA 0. When you do a single material print, do you have the problem with both cores?

Test with a simple model and recommend profiles. If both prints come out bad, the problem lies elsewhere, like settings or other hardware down the line. If one print comes out bad, then that core is the problem.

I would try to increase a bit the feeder, so it slips less and causes less grinding too little feeder tension for the um knurled bolts is as bad as too much.

Also, try to print something with the default profiles to see if keeps failing or works, that will give the moderators and others a base point to compare.

The 0. I have personally seen nothing from them to the contrary on this matter. If this is a capability of the printer, I don't want to forever be stuck using 0. I have attempted temperature increases, and they did not work. I have recently had failures at C, C, and C. This does not appear to be a temperature dependent issue. Can you provide some information about the extrusion rates? I am hesitant to think this is an issue. If the extrusion rate was too high, I would expect to see some surface deformation of the extruded polymer.

I'm not attempting to start an argument here, I would just love to see more information so I can learn while I am fiddling with these issues. I can confirm that this not a retraction based issue.

I recently ran a model which only had retractions above a certain point, and the print failed before reaching those retractions. Is there more information on this which you could provide? I'd love to be able to look at a tech sheet from a polymer and determine important values before I end up wasting my time and material.

While the relationship for ideal mass flow is quite simple, I assume it deviates a great deal for non-newtonian fluids. I suspect there is a relationship to Young's modulus which would show a maximum extrusion rate, but I confess it has been a few years since I did much rheology. I would love to do the core swapping test if I could, but my second core has been committed to a different polymer. The current core has been PLA only. Feeder problem. Share More sharing options Followers 1. Recommended Posts.

Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options BrayChristopher 36 Posted February 27, In general I agree, using bearings in the spoolholder myself. Try tightening the feeder tension. Recommended is not set in stone. Some filaments are just different enough to require a bit more tension.

It can also vary by batches on certain factors such as slipperiness or widths, etc. I'm not sure what you are printing but it sounds like it's doing a lot of retractions? That can cause grinding issues. You don't want the same spot of filament going back and forth more than 20 times through the feeder. In fact to test out my theory let's limit it to 10 times so set this:. Reslice and there will probably be a lot fewer retractions and your filament should be less likely to grind.

This is assuming you have a lot of retractions. It should also speed up your predicted print time. Yea I'm sure now it's the retraction, because when I pull the filament out, there is not just one grind point, but like 4 severe grind points.

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SandervG posted a topic in Official news , April